When I first saw Simplicity 8252 I immediately fell in love with View B & C. I have made it several times now in different versions : day dress, sun dress, a durable wash dress to run errands, a cocktail dress, a bridesmaid dress and coming soon an evening version. In my opinion it would make a great wedding gown with additional train, veil and of course in a dreamy silk fabric.
We all deserve our TNT patterns and this is one of mine. Let me share with you some additional steps, tips and modifications on S8252 View B / C.
Before you start sewing:
Pre-treat all your fabrics (or additional notions made of nature fibres e.g. hem tape, bias binding, ribbons…)
If your fabric of choice is lightweight:
- underline your bodice front and bodice back pieces (means you need to buy some extra fabric or use leftover fabric like cotton batiste or lightweight cotton) or
- create a facing and lining combination ( VintageonTap has a nice Tutorial )
- if you need to make pattern adjustments walk your pattern ( Tutorial )
For an authentic vintage dress skip the invisible zipper and go for a lapped zipper instead ( Tutorial by Craftsy )
I also recommend you interface your straps. I have done it on all my dress versions and it helped so much!
Let’s start sewing:
Before you start with Step 1 do your extra effort and underline your bodice front and back. I always pin them together carefully wrong side to wrong side and give them a good steam press with my iron (use a presscloth).
Then you baste both layers together with your sewing machine or by hand. Your basting stitches should be in your given seam allowance which is 5/8″ / 1,5cm . I usually baste on my longest stitching length and us 3/8″ / 1cm as my seam allowance. Press your underlined pieces again and look for bubbles.
Now you treat your doubled bodice pieces as single layer. Start working on step 1 which would be your stay-stitch and finish off your raw edges.
Follow step 2.
Step 3 is about creating your front pleating. Please test on fabric scraps which marker works best with your fabric, it should be easily removable and never iron over your markings ( they might become permanent). Wash them out first. Delicate fabrics might require tailors tacks which are easy and fast to make (Tutorial by Professor Pincushion)
Follow step 4.
Before you move on to step 5 you could apply seam tape interfacing to all of your skirt seams except for your top skirt seams ( waistline) and on your left side seam where you install your zipper. I always use edge tape interfacing for garments with a zipper. You can sew zippers in more easily and the fabric gets extra support.
Steps 5 to 8.
For Step 9 to 11 you can now choose the invisible zipper or the lapped zipper, both choices are fine. I just prefer lapped zipper on my vintage style garments.
We are now ready for step 12 and stitch our straps together (please consider to interface them like suggested above and don’t forget your seam allowance on the straps is 3/8″ / 1cm ).
Follow step 13.
If your choice was the lapped zipper press your facings as followed:
(Looking at the wrong side of your facing)
- left side seam allowance 3/4″ / 1,9cm -> Press
- right side seam allowance 5/8″ / 1,5cm -> Press
When your outer fabric is lightweight I would suggest you underline your facing pieces too. Apply the interfacing to the underlining fabric then you baste them together as described above.
You can now follow the instructions of View B and finish your dress or choose a different type of hem if your fabric allows for it.
I hope this little tutorial was helpful. If you have any questions to the techniques above or I left something unclear please leave your comments down below or use the contact form to write me.
Thank you for reading and happy sewing,